Hiroko Masuike for The New York Times. Putting toppings on shaved ice sold at a food court inside Flushing Mall.
SEATED at a rickety table, saltshaker poised above a bowl of delicate chicken-and-ginseng soup, the young Taiwanese woman considered a question: why not use soy sauce?“Soy sauce is so American,” she said finally. “It makes everything taste the same.”
Agreed. What you taste ius soy sauce, not the food. Ditto for putting salt on food.
Everything tastes different in Flushing, Queens, the best neighborhood in New York for tasting the true and dazzling flavors of China.
The number of stores is amazing. Traffic is awful, and the streets are crowded, too. (Yuk, yuk. Truly, both the streets and sidewalks are jam-packed.
“From the 1970s until recently, the Taiwanese dominated Flushing, along with Koreans,” he said. “Now it is people from all over mainland China.” Fujian, on the southeast coast, is still the primary source of immigrants to New York, he said, but many who arrive from there actually have roots in the north, center and west of China.
He being Pyong Gap Min, sociology professor at Queens College.
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